Itinerary: Charleston 101
These three pastel dollies help make up Charleston's iconic Rainbow Row on East Bay Street. That balcony with the blue shutters always calls my name.
Nothing beats an evening walk down Legare Street.
My First Experience in Charleston
Randolph Hall, The College of Charleston, as photographed by Warren LeMay.
I first visited Charleston when I was 17, the summer before my senior year. It was one of my university visits and this one turned into a family holiday.
The decision was made easy for me. I knew I wanted to study both Hospitality and Tourism Management and Historic Preservation (which really narrowed down the university options).
I have a distinct memory of my mom and I walking to see the campus one evening. We walked through Porter’s Lodge and saw Randolph Hall for the first time.
I have been blessed to see many amazing sites from my travels, and Randolph Hall is one that truly took my breath away.
Studying in Charleston
August 2022 - Visting Caroline in Charleston. Caroline is my best friend from Charleston and my main travel partner.
I arrived at The College of Charleston in August 2020. I studied there for a year and a half before studying abroad, and ultimately transferring.
I don’t really like going on trips to the same destination. I prefer trying new places. But, since moving away, I have visited my dear friends a few times and never get tired of Charleston.
Getting There
You will fly into Charleston International Airport (CHS). It is a tiny airport, so you can’t get lost. Once you step outside, you will be greeted by palm trees and the warm air on your skin.
It is still America, so no public transportation. Your best bet is to get an Uber.
The airport is 25-minutes from the city centre. Many Ubers hang out around the airport, so don’t worry about availability.
Getting Around
Depending on how much driving you plan on doing to the surrounding islands, you can get away with not renting a car. The peninsula is walkable and easy to navigate.
The one note is that Charleston is a sub-tropic environment and gets very hot. So, if you are with elderly people, or with people who are a bit fussy about the heat, you might want to consider renting a car.
Be warned, the streets of Charleston are historic and therefore quite tight. So, parking is a bit of a headache.
Where to Stay
I recommend staying on the peninsula and then taking the beach on as a day trip or two. If you stay at Folly Beach or Sullivan’s Island, you will miss out on a lot of what Charleston has to offer.
Here is a map of the peninsula, courtesy of Charleston’s Finest City Guide.
You will want to stay south of Line Street and avoid the Northeastern corner (streets like America Street, Nassau Street, etc.).
There just isn’t as much to do the more north you go on the peninsula, and the northeastern corner is a bit dodgy.
The best areas for tourists are The Battery or The Market. You will want to stay near King Street which is essentially the high street of Charleston.
Accommodation Recommendations
Charleston is the land of southern hospitality. So, yes there are some great private rentals through AirBnB and VRBO, but I really stress staying at a hotel in Charleston to really experience the warmth and kindness of southerners.
Here is where I would stay, if I didn’t have my friend Caroline’s couch to crash on:
The Francis Marion Hotel: Right on the corner of King and Calhoun, The Francis Marion is moderately-priced and is in the perfect location. It has an elegant lobby and small, but sweet rooms. My mom stayed here when she visited and it was perfect for just us two!
The Mills House: A larger boutique hotel, The Mills House is in the South of Broad area (the swankiest part of the peninsula), has a lovely courtyard for breakfast. It is catty-corner to Poogan’s Porch which is one of Charleston’s most iconic restaurants. And did I mention, the hotel is pink?
Emeline: Emeline is right in the centre of the market area on Church, and has the best restaurants. For breakfast, you will go to one of my favourite coffee shops: Clerks Coffee Company. For dinner that night, you’ll need to try Frannie & The Fox: a wood-burning pizza and pasta in-hotel restaurant that everyone is trying to get a reservation to, seriously!
Bonus: If you are so lucky enough to afford a stay at either The Charleston Place or Hotel Bennett, you must stay at one of them! These are the two nicest hotels in Charleston. Not that I have stayed there, but I have gone for tours (perks of being a hospitality student).
July 2021 - Shem Creek's line of restaurants on the marsh. Many locals drive their boats here for a night out.
Food & Beverage Paradise: The food scene in Charleston is arguably the best in the U.S., only second to New York City. When any of my British friends shit on American food, it is clear they have never been to Charleston.
Best Brunch: Slightly North of Broad (SNOB): This is an upscale restaurant that serves fantastic meals all day long, but I really love their brunch. I would order a Bellini and the shrimp and grits.
Best Lunch: Lewis Barbecue: As a midwesterner, I am partial to Kansas City BBQ. But damn, the South gives us a run for our money. I went here with my dad and what didn’t we try? We ordered the pork, green beans, hush puppies, Mac&Cheese, and it was all good.
Best Sandwich: Circe’s Grotto: This is a little corner shop south of the campus and it has a killer panini. Go here if you are wanting something light and don’t want another expensive meal. P.S. They also have a great lemonade.
Best “You’re-On-A-Health-Kick”: Basic Kitchen: This is the place to take your hipster friend on the trip. It has a lot of vegan, farm-to-table type meals. I went here with my dear friend Jessie and we had the loveliest time sitting on the back patio.
Best Going Out: Shem’s Creek: Honestly, the food on Shem Creek is OK. I will never turn down some trash-can nachos. But Shem’s Creek is the place to go in the summer if you want to do a little drinking. It is indoor-outdoor, and has a bunch of restaurants lining the marsh. It does fill up though, so get there early, like around 6:00 PM.
Where to Go For Dinner: The food here is so amazing I had to make dinner it’s own category. Here are my top spots (don’t judge me; I like the finer things in life):
Hall’s Chophouse: An amazing steakhouse right on King. The service is top-notch, the steak is tender and I do not have a single complaint. Do make your reservations way in advance though, like weeks in advance, if not months.
Le Farfalle: Le Farfalle is an Italian restaurant with some divine shareables and entrees. I ordered the whipped ricotta the first time I went (back in 2020 when my dad dropped me off) as an appetiser and I am still thinking about it.
Muse: This is a place I would go with my girlfriends and particularly girlfriends who are more chill. The service here is stellar but it is very informal and conversational. It isn’t “everyone just read your order verbatim.” The server will ask you questions and suggest changing the menu item for you. But, that’s what makes it so good.
Bonus: Barsa: I put this as bonus not because it isn’t great. But because it isn’t a place you go your first time to Charleston. This is for the more seasoned Charleston visitor, and is where the locals go. It is a bit north on the peninsula, so I would get an Uber. But it has incredible tapas. You have to order the patas bravas.
November 2023 - A Charleston single house, a type of historic home specific to Charleston, in the South of Broad neighbourhood.
For My Walkers: If you are anything like me, you could spend the whole day just walking around a place. I think this is why I love Charleston so much. It has the prettiest walks! Here are my favourites:
The College of Charleston Campus: Like I mentioned, the campus and the oak allée are unmatched. I would start on George Street and see Randolph Hall first. Then, I would walk through the College Greenway to see a row of tree-lined historic houses now used as classrooms.
South of Broad: This area is called South of Broad referring to Broad street that runs perpendicular to the peninsula. This is the most exclusive area of Charleston, and is the walk to end all walks. It is gorgeous. My favourite street is Legare, (pronounced luh-gree). You will finish your walk at The Battery, which is the tip of The Peninsula where you can see the Atlantic Ocean.
Colonial Lake Park: This is more on the western side of the peninsula and a bit tucked away from the tourism bustle. This is where people really live downtown. Colonial Lake Park is pretty, but what I really like are the houses and neighbourhoods that surround it. Thank me later.
Bonus: Washington Square: This is a tiny park near the eastern side of the peninsula, and pays tribute to George Washington’s remarks on Charleston, (and the Charleston women)! You will need to read it yourself.
Coffees, Pick-Me-Ups and Snacks: All I do is get coffee and snack. Here are my go-to’s in Charleston:
Caviar & Bananas: This is a café that I just adore. It has coffees, fancy lemonades, paninis, salads, you name it. This is the perfect spot for lunch with a friend, or if you need a little afternoon caffeine.
The Rise Coffee Bar: This is a great grab-and-go coffee spot a block away from King Street in The Restoration Hotel. Seating is limited so this is best if you want to sip and walk.
Second State Coffee (Downtown): This was my go-to study space. It is a hidden spot right off campus and has great bakery items and iced coffee. If you are in Charleston, you will pretty much just drink iced coffee with the heat.
Freddo Charleston: So, you’ve shopped on King Street for a couple of hours and you realise the street does not end. You need a pick-me-up. Go to Freddo’s which has the best empanadas to put a little pep back in your step.
May 2021 - Sunset on Sullivan’s Island, a real-life painting.
So Many Things to Do: If you get bored in Charleston, there is a problem with you. There are so many things to see and do, you need a week, minimum, to even get started.
Beach Day: So, here’s the scoop. You are either a Folly Beach person or a Sullivan’s Island person, but you need to commit. Folly Beach = beach bum, fun, laidback vibes, could walk into a shop with just a bikini top on. Sullivan’s Island = a bit classier, quieter, a place you could read a book…more “coastal grandmother.” In my younger years, I was a Folly Beach girl. Now, I resonate more with Sullivan’s. I would say, if you are with wild and crazy friends, go to Folly. If you are with chill friends or your family, go to Sullivan’s. Both are about 15-20 minutes away.
Bulldog Tours: I am the biggest advocate for city tours, and Bulldog Tours is the best company in Charleston. They offer historical tours, custom tours, and food tours. I love the information you learn that you would otherwise not get.
Nathaniel Russell House: Charleston has a dark past, and many house museums. But, this is my favourite. It is federal and neoclassical, built by a wealthy merchant and enslaver, Nathaniel Russell in 1808. It is a beautiful house to see but also is informative of Charleston’s former status as the top port of the trade of enslaved people.
Bonus: The Farmer’s Market: Only open on weekend mornings in Marion Square, local vendors sell fresh produce and arts and crafts.
Hidden Gem: This is the view from Bowen's Island, which is a casual southern restaurant in between Folly Beach and the peninsula. I would order the Low Country Boil and the Shrimp Platter with a side of Fried Green Tomatoes.
Travel Tips:
Lowndes Grove is a private-event venue right on the river. You cannot get into the property, but you can view the home from the gates. It is the prettiest place to watch the sunset, and is the heroine’s home in the hit show Outer Banks (I know because I served weddings here in college)!
If you get tired of walking, call Charleston Bike Taxi. They have a fleet of true athletes that bike all over the city. You will spot their neon yellow rickshaws on your first day there.
Charleston is colloquially called “The Holy City” for its number of churches, and beautiful churches at that. I recommend stopping by the French Huguenot Church if you are religious and/or like architecture.
